Bab el-Khalil (Jaffa Gate) – past and present

Since my childhood I knew the street of Omar Ibn al-Khattab, which runs from the Jaffa Gate all the way to the Armenian Quarter traversing the area of the Christians Quarter and crossing the Bab el-Khalil neighbourhood.

I spent most of my childhood in Bab el-Khalil and its vicinity. I studied at the St. Joseph’s school and my first job was at the St. Dimitri’s school, both located at this place. Since 1994 and up till today I work at the Swedish Christian Study Centre, which is also located inside Bab el-Khalil.

Making the Old New?

Every day, I pass the street witnessing and feeling the current changes to Bab el-Khalil and the Old City. But what Old City? It is not old any more. The daily changes that are taking place to the character of the old city are deeply saddening me. It’s as if my identity is being messed with what is happening. Not only the changes in the look of the place, but most important the facts that the Israelis are creating on the ground, which is changing our reality forever. What seems as simple construction work in some neighbourhoods and streets hides much more serious schemes to alter the use and eventually the users of the city.

I am totally shocked of the insane idea of constructing overpasses on the roofs of the Old City buildings to provide “safe” passage for the settlers, who have occupied several buildings in the city and are trying to create a new reality, which in essence is trying madly to drive away the inhabitants of the City. This reality that is imposed on us by force is seeking to negate our existence, our history, and the various elements and ingredients that give this amazing city its colours, diversity and uniqueness.

For free or your income
I used to see the Palestinian guides standing in Bab el-Khalil, walking with tourists, and taking them on guided tours of the Holy places. This is how they normally make their living. But these days, I see Israeli youth wearing red T-Shirts with "New Europe" printed on them, holding banners that say “FREE GUIDING”, and giving away pamphlets with maps of the Old City. They stand everywhere and mainly in front of the Israeli Tourist Information office, while the Palestinian guides stand aside watching them and waiting for God’s mercy, hoping that one or a couple of tourists slip through unnoticed by the Israeli young and “free” guides.

As a Palestinian witnessing all these changes, I can’t stop wondering why no one is doing anything to stop this calamity. I am sure that the people are aware of what is happening, but till when we can be quiet? With the coming of the Palestinian authority the people relinquished there responsibility to fighting the occupation and protecting the land to the newly established authority, which unfortunately had stupidly given up its responsibility over Jerusalem in the Oslo Accords.

The Holy feasts have new conditions
Since I was a child, I used to watch the leaders of the Churches go to greet one another during the Holy feasts. I could hear the sounds of their guards mixed with their voices as they pass in Bab el-Khalil. I would run to watch them feeling that I belong to this country more than anyone else. During Christmas and Easter the street of Bab el-Khalil was an attraction for the processions and Marching bands.

But now it seems that the occupation succeeded in cancelling these processions by preventing us from entering the city and participating in the holy celebrations. Whereas during the Jewish feasts the street of Bab el-Khalil is packed with Jews heading towards the Wailing Wall, celebrating, singing and dancing, and sometimes riding on trucks together with musical bands. I feel sad to see all the shopkeepers stand outside their stores watching the Jewish celebrations with Israeli flags flying everywhere, while they are prevented from properly celebrating their own feast.

I hardly can see or meet other Palestinians in Bab el-Khalil nowadays, as if they moved to other quarters or neighbourhoods. I am wondering till when is this silence? When can we get back our freedom? Is our Authority aware for what is happening in Bab el-Khalil, and if so, why aren’t they telling us what to do? Do we have to wait for more negotiation? To negotiate about what? What is left of the country and of Bab el-Khalil?

For me it is not Bab el-Khalil any more, maybe one day it will be given a new name just like other places; Bisan became Beit She’an, Deir Yassin became Givat Shaul and eventually our grandchildren will not know of it nor of our life here.

Everyday I am wondering and am bleeding, Bleeding for not being able to save Bab el-Khalil, wondering every day what to do. Bleeding for not being able to prepare for our children and grandchildren a better future in the place we love and belong to. Bleeding for not being able to convince them to stay. Bleeding for not saving Bab el-Khalil.

Strange is this feeling of guilt.

 
Text: Hania Kassicieh-Persekian, program coordinator at SCSC